Let's start off by drawing a large oval for the chest shape, and a smaller oval beneath that for the stomach and pelvis.
Step 2.
We're going to add a ball for each shoulder. From this angle, one shoulder is partly hidden. Draw a little nub below each shoulder for the upper arm. Down below, we'll draw a sausage for each thigh. Below that, we'll add a blocky shape for each lower leg. The feet are part of the lower leg.
Step 3.
Draw a pair of curves for each forearm. Then add a square shape for the hands. Next draw a circle inside the chest/torso shape for the head.
Step 4.
Draw a small circle within the head for the single eyeball. Below the head, we'll draw a blocky shape for the chin and jaw. Add a center line from the top of the back, down the face and stomach. On the hands, we'll use simple lines to separate the thumb and fingers, balled up into fists.
Step 5.
Lighten up your guide drawing. Then we'll begin inking by drawing a blocky V-shape for a unibrow that hangs over the eyeball. Next ink the eyeball outline and add a pupil just off-center. Well, you can put the pupil wherever you want. He could even be looking right at us if you want him to.
Step 6.
As we ink the jaw, I've made it a bit rounder than the guide drawing. You can choose the shape you want, but the general ideas is to keep it large and chunky. Draw a little box shape for the tops of each tooth. These teeth will be part of the jaw, so we don't need to outline the full tooth.
Step 7.
Draw a little Z-line or lightning bolt from the eyebrow to the jaw to form the cheekbones and sides of the face. We'll give him little round disc ears, kind of like Majin Buu. Atop his head, we'll add a little stone ridge, and then use simple curves to close it all in.
Step 8.
For the eye detail, begin by drawing a line outward from the right and left sides of the eyeball. After that, draw a little V-shape in each corner we've created. This gives the appearance of a slight bulge or wrinkle around the eyeball. The upside-down U-shape on the chin creates a little concave indentation. On the teeth, a little extra thick-to-thin outline makes it seem like the teeth are embedded into the jawbone.
Step 9.
As we move to the shoulder, I suggest drawing the blocky mineral shapes first. These are like crystals, sticking out of the shoulder. We can draw the rest of the shoulder around those shapes. The outline is a lot blockier than the guide drawing, as we're using lots of straight lines to create hard edges and angles.
Step 10.
As you continue to ink the body, try to use bold, straight lines. There can be a curve to the lines, but you want to give each shape a feeling of being hard, like a rock. The trick is drawing each section of line quickly, and with confidence. Even the curve for the ribcage is done in a quick, thick-to-thin curve. If you draw it slowly, your line will wobble and you'll lose that rock feeling we want. So ok, we're adding the muscles between his shoulders and neck. Then the large chest shape, a thin stomach, and we'll add some more shape to the pelvis. We're basically just refining shapes here.
Step 11.
Earlier we put a stone ridge on top of the head. We'll do the same type of thing here, with a curved shape going from the back of the head, over the back of the body. Bold, jagged curves complete the outline of the back. On each side of the jaw, we'll use thinner lines to form the collar bones. This will help separate the shapes of the body since we're kind of looking down at his torso.
Step 12.
Now we'll really start to fill out the torso. For the ribs, we'll start with a zigzag that tapers out into a smooth curve. Below the chin, each stomach muscle can be drawn as a rough rectangle, but don't outline each shape entirely. Leave the outer edge open so the entire surface of the body feels like one piece. The slight curve of each muscles should overlap the one beneath it.
Step 13.
Continue drawing the stomach muscles. Use back-and-forth angles to create interesting shapes. Next we want to draw the second shoulder. Start with the mineral shapes. Then outline the muscle. From there, we'll break each little arm nub into muscle shapes. The center muscle, the biceps, should be like a vertical rectangle. The smaller muscles on the sides can be made with jagged lines and angles. Some more jagged lines can be added to the body above the head. Make sure these lines curve along with the shape of the upper body.
Step 14.
I wanted to make the body look more jagged and ferocious, so let's draw a bunch of little squares and triangles, and some larger shapes that are almost like teeth. With the outlines drawn, we can add simple angles inside each shape to create the different sides and edges of the crystals.
Step 15.
Whenever drawing hands, I recommend looking at your own hands for reference. Even though these are cartoon hands, it'll good to have things looking as realistic as possible. The first shape we'll focus on is the thumb and the thumb pad of the palm. Folded up, they look like a cartoon "C" shape. The thumb itself overlaps the other parts of the shape. We'll use wrinkles to break it down into segments, and show how each part overlaps. On the forearms, we'll continue the same type of detailing we used on the upper body.
Step 16.
The angle on each hand is slightly different. You may want to rotate your paper in order to draw the hands at the same angle as you view your own hands. Each finger is drawn as a blocky sausage, and wrinkles form the knuckles. The area where the index finger connects to the hand is the most complex here, so just look at your own hand and try to replicate those shapes in the drawing.
Step 17.
The forearms almost look like raisins here, but there's a little logic behind their shapes. Each forearm has two large muscles shapes, and we also need to connect the upper arm to the forearm. If you look at the left arm, there's a loose wrench shape that wraps around the base of the upper arm and runs down the center of the forearm. Then we have a large lump on each side. The angle is slightly different on the other arm, but the idea is the same. Add more wrinkles and crystals as desired.
Step 18.
Each kneecap is drawn almost like a spoon, with a round end and a thin handle running up the center of each leg. The open circle inside each kneecap creates an indentation. From there, it's just overlapping curves moving into the hips/pelvis.
Step 19.
The sides of each leg below the knee are drawn in a similar way to the cheekbones we drew earlier. A large bulge, and then a cut back inward. It ends up being drawing like a question-mark ? shape here. Below that, large chunks of rock spread outward toward the bottom of each foot, almost like giant toes. The shapes grow more narrow at the edges, to show the roundness of the leg's shape.
Step 20.
Add some more ? shapes to the inner leg, along with some straight lines at the bottom to fill out the rocky shapes. On one thigh, we need to add a blob of muscle to even things out.
Step 21.
I wanted to add some cracks and tiny rock details here and there, but I also felt the hands needed a bit more detail. Similar to the mineral shapes on the shoulders, we'll add some hard inner edges to create different planes for each palm muscle. We can also add some more knuckle wrinkles to make the hands look more rough.
Step 22.
Erase the guide drawing, and you should end up with something like this. Fairly simple, but fun to draw. I like this type of hulking character, and I hope you enjoyed following along. Feel free to mix up the details a bit and create your own original stone warrior. Let me know if you'd like to see more like this. Thanks for viewing!
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